This simple and delicious dessert was made for Father’s Day, and is the third of my dessert recipes to feature butterscotch extract. (Oatmeal and Chocolate Chip cookies being the first and second). I’m not sure how I found this recipe (think it was through some kind of Pinterest investigation) but I am glad I did. It was from a site called chocolatechocolateandmore.com, so you know it’s good! Warning: it contains no chocolate.
The recipe was near-perfect, but as always, I had to go and mess with it. A couple of tweaks were necessary, not least of all was the elimination of the cast-iron pan, as mine recently broke (snapped, really). Of course, increasing the vanilla and salt levels (this worried me at the batter stage, but paid off at the cake stage). Lastly, I added 1/8 tsp of butterscotch extract (Frontier brand), which is a bit of guilding the lily—you can leave it out and it makes for a great, simple dessert. But I thought it needed just a tiny little bit more personality. Also, I found myself wondering what it would be like if I beat the egg whites (to stiff foamy peaks) with the sugar separately and then folded them into the rest of the recipe. I didn’t try it, but that is how egg whites are frequently used in baking this type of light dessert.
My one big deviation from the recipe as written was to add a cup of sugar to the shortening, milk and vanilla combo, rather than add it all to the wet ingredients with the dry. I felt it was necessary. Did it make a difference? I think when you can cream or semi-cream your sugar, you eliminate the possibility of that granular mouth feel.
Despite my track record of putting great desserts on table, my family doubted this would be a dessert they would like. After all, it’s not chocolate, and what is it, really? Plain cake? But no, as its original author contends– it’s melt in your mouth delicious. Might I need to add a streusel layer (one of my other obsessions)? Most likely. This is also a great cake as a base– for covering with strawberries, or strawberry filling (like that from my version of hand pies) or some other kind of sweet confection. If you have a good maple syrup, you might substitute for that for the butterscotch.
As for whether this is better in the morning, it will be hard to tell, since my family of four almost completely cookie-monstered the cake last night, which rarely happens.
So if you have a Father (or Father substitute) that you want to make happy, this a great recipe: simple and quick.
- 1/2 cup vegetable shortening
- 1 cup milk
- 1 tablespoon vanilla
- 2 cups plus 2 tablespoons all purpose flour
- 1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
- 4 teaspoons baking powder
- 1 heaping teaspoon salt
- 4 large egg whites
- 1/8 tsp butterscotch extract
- confectioner’s sugar for covering
- Cream together shortening and milk for about 3 minutes, (it will look like small curd cottage cheese.)
- Add in 1 cup of a sugar and the vanilla. Continue to mix.
- in a separate bowl combine flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. Add flour, one third at a time to the milk mixture, blending well after each addition.
- Add in egg whites, beating just until all combined.
- Pour batter into a greased and floured (not sprayed) 9 inch round cake pan.
- Bake in a preheated 350 degree oven for approximately 40-45 minutes (mine was ready at 43) or test for doneness.
- Let cool on wire rack for at least 45 minutes before serving, cover top with powdered sugar.
After cooling, I ‘heavily dusted’ the top with powder sugar, covering the top like a ski-chalet after a heavy Vermont snow. The original recipe called for a dusting, but I thought it needed more. Some in my house suggested it needed frosting, but I am not among those who agree. However, you can check out this simple vanilla cream frosting recipe (at the bottom of this chocolate cake recipe) if you like. Otherwise, Happy Father’s Day!
Or How to Make the Perfect Chocolate Chip Cookie.
If you knew me, you would know that there was period in my life where I was obsessed with creating the perfect chocolate chip cookie. This particular obsession stayed with me for about two years. During that time I continually asked the question, how could one chocolate chip cookie be so different from another? Having eaten my way through scads of cookies at bake sales, restaurants, bakeries and neighbors’ houses, I was struck by why one cookie, be it a cellophane-wrapped one at a nearby deli was so dry, crumbly and flavorless, while just a few doors down at another place they were chewy in the center, crispy on the outside and delicious in every way to the point that you wanted to eat the wax paper it came in. Everyone is basically using the same ingredients: flour, butter, vanilla, salt and chocolate, how could the cookies be so different? Was there a secret ingredient?
If you care about food then you have asked this about lots of things. The English can’t figure out why Americans can’t make proper tea, and that can have as little as three ingredients. Simple black coffee differs from restaurant to restaurant and house to house and from coast to coast. I hypothesized that if the quality of the ingredients was better, the overall end product would be correspondingly better. So I commenced my experimentation by trying out what looked like the best of everything: premium chocolate, eggs that came from chickens within hours, farm milk and butter, expensive flour and premium vanillas. Cooks Illustrated did a vanilla taste test that concluded that McCormick’s (the kind available in most markets) was the best for things that will be cooked at high temperatures (e.g. cookies).
With that, and my anecdotal experience that home bakers routinely turn out better cookies than Whole Foods, I decided to research equipment and techniques. There is a lot to both. King Arthur Flour did an experiment on the complexion of your pan and the difference between parchment, silicon mats and lightly greased pans has been written about extensively. The Cook’s Illustrated recipe recommends periods of rest between beatings to allow the air to infuse properly into the cookies. Epicurious (et al) recommend chilling your cookies, especially if they have a high fat (butter) content.
Ultimately, the right chocolate chip cookie for a person is exactly like the right bed. Everyone’s likes are different, and vary based on age and may continue to evolve. The perfect cookie may not be an objective, achievable thing, but I do believe it is possible to make a great and distinct cookie that will win over most people. After years of experimentation, I finally found one I’m ready to share, though I can hardly take credit for it. Most people I know well enough to ask them about their chocolate chip cookie recipe either use the Toll House recipe (which is fine) or one of the three Cook’s Illustrated recipes. I have made them all repeatedly for years and they turn out predictably good cookies all the time.
But I was not satisfied, and had to continue to experiment. Luckily, even mediocre chocolate chip cookies fresh out of the oven are good to eat, so experimenting was not a hardship. I kept seeing recipes I had to try– there’s even one on the box of baking soda! Finally, I noticed one on the Ghirardelli Chocolate Chip bag (duh) and with a few tweaks, it made the perfect cookie for me (and the people in my immediate circle of friends who are subject to trying such things). It was pronounced “the bingo” and “best.cookie.ever.” So I figured it was time to share with you.
- 2 1/4 cups unsifted flour
- 1 teaspoon baking soda
- 1/2 HEAPING teaspoon Kosher salt
- 11 .5 ounces Semi-Sweet Chocolate Baking Chips (use 7 oz chips and 1 bar [4 oz] choppeda semi-sweet bar) or you could use a whole bag of chips, if you’re lazy
- 1 cup butter (I use Kate’s unsalted butter), browned (which comes after simple melting) and cooled.
- 3/4 cup sugar
- 3/4 cup brown sugar, packed
- 2 large eggs
- 1 tablespoon vanilla
- ~Three drops of butterscotch extract (about 1/16th teaspoon).
- Heat oven to 350ºF
- Stir flour with baking soda and salt and chocolate, set aside
- Using a stand mixer, combine sugars, and then add browned butter.
- When completely mixed, add eggs one at a time
- Add vanilla and butterscotch, mix well.
- Add dry ingredient by mixing by hand with a spatula (I have stopped using the mixer to combine wet and dry ingredients, and find that it is significantly important to the final texture)
- Refrigerate for a few hours (but feel free to eat some cookie dough before you put it away).
- When ready, use a 2-oz scooper to make rather large cookies.
- Place 9 to a sheet. (I use parchment paper and a cushion-air baking pan)
- Bake for approximately 15 minutes.
- Let sit for at least 5 minutes, for the cookies to set
So even though this recipe comes from mostly from Ghirardelli, I wanted to discuss the things that make it different from your standard Toll House recipe, including the three tweaks I made, which come from various places.
- The melting of the butter comes from Cook’s Illustrated, who suggest that browning the butter (so that it produces an almost nutty smell) produces a great cookie. They are right.
- Using chopped chocolate instead of all chocolate chips was inspired by an almost perfectly written piece over at Serious Eats, a website you should visit all the time if you care about what you eat. They say you should use ALL chopped chocolate which I agree with, but also like the mixed up texture of using both.
- Not sifting the flour is a counter-intuitive step for a baker, but seems to work wonders, and is in the original recipe.
- Adding Butterscotch is of course, my own obsession. (I recommend Frontier brand, which is available at Amazon and probably your local health food store. Do not use artificial butterscotch flavor).
- More Salt and Vanilla. I’m probably using closer to 3/4 teaspoon of salt than a 1/2, but I use the 1/2 teaspoon and get a big heap on it. When combined with butterscotch and more vanilla, these three ingredients give the cookies a deep and soulful flavor that is intense and satisfying.
- Using 11.5 oz of Chocolate. Standard bag of chips is 12 oz and the Ghirardelli baking bars come in 4-oz sizes (unless you get the massive high-end bars, which come in all kind of sizes). Before this recipe, I used a fat cup (9 oz) of semi-sweet chips, but measuring out 11.5 ounces was a revelation.
- Making them big. It’s a cliche to say go big or go home, but I feel like when I’m making desserts for the crowd, make ’em big. Why make little cookies? It’s more work! Also, if you make ’em big it’s more likely that you can achieve that crispy on the outside soft in the middle perfection that most people love. I end up with a nine to a tray, instead of 12.
Lastly, a great cookie dough is an important part of your arsenal. Not just for baking cookies, but for eating straight, as I love to do. I spent much of my youth eating out of a roll of cookie dough purchased from the supermarket. Only in my thirties did I realize I could make my own which would be better and free of high-fructose corn syrup anytime I wanted, and I could freeze it so I would always have it.
If you are like me, and obsessed with chocolate chip cookies, you may find as I did, that here is so much to read, that it’s hard to know where to start or where to stop. Epicurious, the Huffington Post and Bon Appetit have great articles about what to do and not do and besides my recipe, maybe the only things you need. For now, anyway.
When I first called this “The Breakfast of Champions” I was being facetious. Unlike its eponymous namesake, it has basically all the wrong things going for it. It’s high in fat (thanks to the salami). It’s high in sodium, thanks to the cheese and the salami, and it’s high in sugar due to the massive carb-load of the bagel. Also, it doesn’t even contain eggs (which Hazel Grace would object to). That being said, it tastes really, really good, and is perfect for those about to trek out into the cold, cruel word who need to be fortified for a long time.
I use three ingredients:
- 1 Bagel
- Jarlsberg (Swiss) Cheese
Though it’s a simple makeup, it’s always about personal preference. If you want to add stuff to change its texture or flavor, like mustard, banana peppers, cole slaw, or any typical sandwich topper, go ahead. But bagel sandwiches do get messy, even when prepared correctly. So, if you’re going to do it, you have to do it right. (This assumes you don’t have one of those assembly line toasters that have frustrated legions of college students and hotel buffet visitors). And doing it right means cooking it in three stages:
1. Toast the bagel (lightly).
2. Melt the cheese on the bagels. (I use foil to ensure no over-melting onto toaster parts)
3. Finish by covering the melted-cheese bagel with salami and toasting on high, or broil (if you promise not to walk away from the toaster).
4. When salami is crisp, and cheese bubbly, remove from toaster and let set, two-three minutes. If you don’t allow it to cool, the cheese will slide off. Let it set and cut into halves (or make a sandwich).
More on this sandwich
My father used to make this for breakfast, where I grew up outside of metro New York City. There, you can’t fall down without hitting a great bagel. Now, I live in Massachusetts and look though I might, it seems great bagels are hard to come by. You can argue with me, but you can’t win. It’s a matter of taste and birthright; if you were born in the tri-state area, you likely have a higher standard for bagels than the rest of the country. I don’t why that is, but I know that people who move to Massachusetts from California simply stop eating Mexican food. Is our Mexican food bad? No, it’s just that they are used to something very different, likely more authentic, and in all reality (with few exceptions), much much better. And really, Mass is kind of weird that way. Though I have eaten in Chinese restaurants around the country and on both coasts, only here in Massachusetts did I find Chinese restaurants that serve rolls with dinner. Bread rolls. Rolls made of bread. But I digress.
So there are two keys to making this sandwich perfect. One, start with the best ingredients. I find the Applegate Naturals soppressata is a reliably tasty item. Sure, we could argue about the
history of soppressata and cured meats and I don’t doubt there are better, more authentic versions out there. But Applegate is good and easily available; and it in comes in a package (horrors!) which makes it easier to keep inventory control. Jarlsberg, is of course, the most famous brand of Swiss Cheese, and is frequently sold in triangles, guaranteeing it will be nearly impossible to slice. However, you’ll need to slice it.
The second thing is patience. You may want to simply toast everything together, but I find skipping any of these steps results in things being soggy where you want them to be crispy or spongy where you want them to be melty.
I wrote earlier of my quest to make the perfect Oatmeal Cranberry Cookie, pushed forward to insane measures by the nearly perfect cookie available from Petsi’s Pies in Cambridge, MA. Though my first attempts resulted in an excellent cookies, I knew that I could do better, and in fact, had to do better. So I kept trying out recipes. Of course, when you’re experimenting with cookies you realize there’s almost no such thing as a bad oatmeal cookie. You just eat your mistakes. No one was complaining, but I wasn’t satisfied. I was trying for a particular taste and texture. In other words, on a mission from God. Remembering a chocolate chip recipe that used bread flour instead of all-purpose flour, I started looking specifically for an oatmeal cookie recipe that used bread flour and found one at Averiecooks.com (that was itself modified from a Land O’Lakes recipe). I use Kate’s for all my butter baking, just FYI, but this was a great recipe. Of course it needed some tweaks. A little more butter, salt, vanilla and natch, the secret ingredient of butterscotch. I think 1/4 tsp is the right amount but if someone tasting it immediately says “these have butterscotch in them!” you’ve used too much.
Keep your butter and eggs and room temperature. If you can’t find infused cranberries, you can always just buy regular and soak ’em. I used to soak them in a vanilla/water base for 30 minutes but ultimately I found that it didn’t hurt to use them dry. But if you want people to ask for you the recipe (as I was asked for) than you go that extra few miles.
- 1 large egg, room temperature
- 1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened, plus 1 tablespoon
- 1 cup light brown sugar, packed
- 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
- 1/4 tsp butterscotch extract
- ~2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
- 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
- 1/4 heaping teaspoon salt
- 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons bread flour
- 1 1/2 cups whole rolled old-fashioned oats (not quick cook)
- 1 cup apple juice infused cranberries
- 1/2 cup chopped walnuts
- In a stand mixer, cream your butter and sugar for about five minutes and add the egg.
- Add the rest of the wet ingredients slowly; vanilla and butterscotch extract and mix till incorporated.
- In a separate bowl, mix some but NOT ALL of your dry ingredients: the bread flower, cinnamon, baking soda, and salt.
- In a third bowl you can mix your cranberries and walnuts.
- Add the flour mixture to the wet ingredients inside the stand mixer bowl, but ignore the paddle and mix with a spatula (I find this better than mixing it with the stand mixer).
- When sufficiently mixed, add your oats.
- Then add the cranberry-walnut mixture. Mix with the paddle attachment but DO NOT OVERMIX. Just enough to to ensure incorporated ingredients.
- Transfer mixture to cellophane wrap and refrigerate for at least two hours, but ideally overnight.
- Preheat oven to 350F, line a baking sheet with a Non-Stick Baking Mat set aside.
- Use a cookie/ice cream scoop to form mounds, but after you’ve set them up (I get about 12 to a tray) use a metal spatula sprayed with PAM to flatten the cookie. I found this necessary because otherwise the mound of cookie doesn’t melt to the proper width (for my taste). I am aiming for a crispy and chewy cookie; the mounds end up softer and chewier; flattening them allows more crispiness.
- Bake for 13-15 minutes (depending on your oven, your cookie tray and your altitude). For more on the difference between your pans and baking time, read this incredible article from King Arthur Flour.
- Let the cookies set up on the tray, at least five minutes, before transferring them to another location, like a cookie rack, or your mouth.
This recipe is dedicated to Mike B, Justin and F.Y. Ruts, and the guys from the Chinatown Collective.
Growing up on the East Coast, we always looked forward to Spring because it meant freedom from snow (which would be black and dirty by April), and the Passover/Easter holidays, which themselves brought candy, days off from school and special visits with relatives. As far back as I can remember, Macaroons were one of the things I most looked forward to. The Manischewitz brand came in Coconut and Chocolate and later on, Chocolate Chip, and were, in my opinion, the top of the line until I tasted one from a bakery on Long Island called Bruce’s. Like the Wizard of Oz going to color from black and white, my world was rocked when I ate this magnificent morsel, which I instantly awarded the designation of Best Macaroon of All Time. They were shaped like a pregnant traffic cones and were dipped in chocolate. They were crispy on the outside like a coconut hash-brown, but moist on the inside. The chocolate was not too sweet and was perfect complement to the coconut. The chocolate had a sensational mouth-texture to it, requiring a firm bite but rewarding you with melty mouthful. Any pilgrimage to New York always included a trip to Bruce’s to get these incredible treats, and it was always with great woe that I noted they were gone, because it meant 1) I no longer had any of them and 2) I had gained 10 lbs.
I tried often to recreate them, but never succeeded. I had mostly given up on trying when I attended a seder and I tasted a macaroon that was just as good, if not better than my beloved Bruce’s. I begged for the recipe, which is here below, and I’m glad I did, because shortly after the next year’s Seder, Bruce’s inexplicably closed its doors.
Had I not had this recipe, I’m sure I would have given up all hope of ever eating a chocolate dipped coconut macaroon ever again. The recipe is not complex, but does require ingredients you likely don’t have at home (condensed milk?). Using an ice cream scoop I found was very helpful, but I have yet to recreate the traffic cone shape of the original.
Though it is obvious, I must remind you that this is not health food. Some people might assume that if a dessert is flour-free and made with coconut that it could conceivably be healthier or lower in calories than other desserts. But in this case, that is absolutely not true. In fact, this is a true diet-buster, so proceed with caution. Make sure you have a place to bring these, because you don’t want them sitting on your counter, taunting you to eat every last, absolutely delicious one of them.
Chocolate Dipped Coconut Macaroons
- 2 (14-oz.) bags sweetened flaked coconut
- 1 (14-oz.) can sweetened condensed milk
- 2 tbsp. sour cream
- 1 tbsp. heavy cream
- 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
- 12 oz. bittersweet (and milk) chocolate, mixed and melted.
- Tiny bit of salt, perhaps less than an 1/8th of a tsp
1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Line baking sheets with parchment paper.
2. In a large bowl, mix together all ingredients until thoroughly combined.
3. Press dough into a soup spoon or small ice cream scoop or ball in your palm and place on baking sheet.
4. Bake for 20-30 minutes until lightly brown. Remove from oven; let cool.
5. If possible, submerge (dip) the macaroon in melted chocolate and place on a tray lined with wax paper. (Don’t even start me on tempering the chocolate, that’s a whole other thing).
6. Refrigerate for 20 minutes before serving.
Before we start, let me tell me you I know about the recipe under the Quaker oats cap. I’ve made it. It’s good. It makes great cookies and you’re looking for super simple, go ahead and make that one.
And I was fine with that cookie until I had a life changing event: eating an oatmeal cranberry cookie from Petsi Pies in Cambridge, MA. So head-exploding was the sensation of this cookie that I was driven to the Interwebz to find a recipe that would create a cookie just like it. Of course, the problem with trying to create a copycat recipe is knowing, at a basic level, what goes into it. So I set out to find out if anyone had already tried to do it, or do something close. Sadly, I came up empty but you have to start somewhere. After several batches, I found a good starting place at Frances & Ian. Their recipe was very good, so naturally I started changing it immediately.
For starters, I was going to have cranberries instead of raisins. But after eating Petsi cookies, I realized these were no ordinary Ocean Spray bag o’cranberries. I experimented with soaking them in vanilla for 30 minutes but no, that wasn’t it. I tried unsweetened and non-sulfated cranberries. Still no. Then, I found apple-juice infused cranberries from Whole Foods and those seemed to be good enough– juicy, sweet, but not of sugar.
I needed nuts. Frances & Ian didn’t have nuts, and walnuts are usually the go-to nut for oatmeal cookies. I prefer pecans, but I was trying to create a copycat, so walnuts it was.
Cinnamon- the recipe originally called for 2 teaspoons but that seemed like too much, so I cut it in half.
If you know me, then you know of course I increased the vanilla and salt.
That elusive ingredient. After months of trying to figure out what’s in these incredible cookies I had a revelation: butterscotch. But in what form? Extra brown sugar and butter? Chips? I tried it both ways. First, I melted and 1/8 of a cup of butterscotch chips in a tablespoon of butter and added it to the creamed butter and sugar, and that’s what the picture is of. They were good. But I still wasn’t satisfied. I don’t like the artificial flavored chips—so I found a butterscotch extract from Frontier that was all natural. I added and 1/4 tsp but I think 1/2 tsp is the right amount. You want it enough to be “heard” but not so much that it’s overwhelming the other flavors.
Texture. My brother loves crispy cookies but I like them soft and chewy. This is a seemingly impossible-to-placate schism for cookie lovers and bakers all around the world, but it can be solved easily in the way that grill masters satisfy their distinct needs in adult and child audiences. Steak cooked rare comes off first; steak cooked medium stays in longer. That’s one solution, but what I found was that by making the cookies BIGGER, as Petsi does, you can get a crispy outside and a soft inside, which is really the best of both worlds and makes everybody happy.
When I make them for myself, I use a 1.5 inch scoop, but when I make them for anyone else, I use a 2 or 2.5 inch scoop. This makes them bigger, and more likely to achieve the crisp and chewy outcome.
- ½ cup butter, room temperature
- ¾ cup packed dark brown sugar + 1 tablespoon
- ¼ cup white sugar
- 1 large egg, room temperature
- 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
- ½ tsp butterscotch extract
- 1 cup all purpose flour, sifted
- ¼-½ tsp kosher salt (I used ½)
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- 2 teaspoons corn starch
- 1 teaspoon cinnamon
- 1 ½ cups rolled oats
- ½-1 scant cup walnuts, chopped
- 1 cup cranberries (I used apple-juice infused cranberries)
Make sure you have butter and eggs at room temperature: cold is bad.
Mix together dry ingredients flour, corn starch, baking powder, cinnamon and salt.
In another bowl, prepare your cranberries, chopped walnuts and oats.
Cream sugar and butter, about 3 minutes if you need to time it.
Add your egg, and mix. Then add vanilla and butterscotch extracts.
Then pour in your flour, baking powder, cornstarch, and cinnamon and mix just until combined.
Add the oatmeal, cranberries and walnuts. Mix until just combined.
Remove from bowl and place in cellophane wrap for 30 minutes up till overnight.
After chilling, take out and let come to temperature– this will help scoops melt into a more familiar cookie shape. If you like mound-shaped cookies, then you don’t have to wait.
Scoop cookies onto parchment paper or silicon mat and bake for about 12 minutes at 350. Depending on how crispy you like them (and how old your oven is) you might want to turn them around and give them another 3-5 minutes.
Important: these cookies need to “set up,” meaning that if you try to remove them from the tray before they’ve cooled you’ll have a crumbling hot mess on your hands, and likely everywhere. Let them cool on the tray for at least five minutes and then transfer them to a cooling rack for about five minutes.
Then, experience oatmeal cookie perfection.
My kids love General Gau’s/Tso’s chicken or Sesame Chicken as a dish from Chinese restaurants. I always knew it was not a health dish, because it was likely rolled in flour and deep fried before being covered with a sickeningly sweet sauce. I also know that any time you can make something at home, you have better control over exactly how bad it is for bodies, for teeth, and for wallets.
But the great thing for me about either going out for Chinese food or doing take out is that it’s something you can’t make at home. But trawling through the Internet, I found a great recipe for sticky sesame chicken here from the website Creme De la Crumb. The author Tiffany, took the recipe from a blog called Six Sisters Stuff, that called for using prepackaged popcorn chicken. I of course, have tweaked it further because I can’t leave well enough alone. I think 4 tablespoons of honey is fine (her recipe called for six) and I always insist on fresh steamed broccoli with it, so at very least I can kid myself it’s a balanced meal.
I made this this year for New Year’s Eve and it was a big hit! I made it first with breast of chicken, but have since found that it can be made successfully with chicken thighs. This is so far it is the only way to get my kids to eat chicken thighs and requires that I trim the fat aggressively. Though it seems fancy, the dish is relatively easy to make and always comes out like the picture (above), which is actually my dish. All the versions of this recipe produce such equally good-looking chicken dishes is really a testament to its ease. You can do it!
Even though this is dish is made at home, it’s still no diet-helper. It’s double dipped in flour and corn starch, and the sauce features four kinds of sugar (honey, ketchup, white and brown sugars). Still, it’s DELICIOUS and quick, and still great the next day. It’s really all in the timing. I recommend before you start, you set your rice in your rice cooker (this takes about 45 minutes) and trim and cut your broccoli. If you are going steam or boil it, prepare the pot and the water.
For the chicken, I find it’s easier to do all your cutting before your dipping and coating.
There were some omissions or points of interest in Tiffany’s recipe that I had to either correct or fill in for myself. Her recipe called for “one tablespoon of oil.” I tried that but found that I need a lot more oil to get the chicken cooked, and since I had to cook it in batches, I ended up using quite a bit more. At the end, I had a skillet with oil in it, but clearly that wouldn’t have been the case with one tablespoon, hence my direction to pour off the extra oil (but not the charred bits of chicken-stuff. Keep that, it’s good).
That recipe also supposes I have a pan big enough to cook ALL of the chicken at once (since she never mentions taking it out). That’s not the case, and so I ended up cooking the chicken in batches, and then placing it on a paper towel to dry while I did the next batch (four chicken thighs took three separate batches). After all the chicken was done, I cooked the sauce and then returned the cooked and dry-drained chicken to the pan.
Lastly, she did not specify what kind of oil to use. Usually I use canola oil for frying but in this case I added a little peanut oil as well. Did I say “not a health food?” Though high in fat, sugar and carbs, unlike a take-out chinese meal, there were no other dishes, and no fortune cookies, so at very least that was a calorie saving. And this week, we actually ordered the dish from our favorite Chinese restaurant and my kids voted mine better. So to recap: cheaper, faster and more popular. But still not a health food.
- 3 boneless skinless chicken breasts, or 4 chicken thighs, fat trimmed and cut into small pieces.
- canola and/or peanut oil
- 6 tablespoons flour
- 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
- 5 tablespoons corn starch
- roasted sesame seeds
- Scallions, washed green ends only
- 4 tablespoons honey
- 4 tablespoons ketchup
- 3 tablespoons sugar
- 1 tablespoon brown sugar
- 2 tablespoons white vinegar
- 3 tablespoons soy sauce
- ½ teaspoon salt
- 2 teaspoons garlic powder
- 1 teaspoon onion powder
- 1 teaspoon powered ginger
- 1 tablespoon cold water + 2 tablespoons corn starch
- Whisk all sauce ingredients together, set aside.
- Arrange in three bowls, the beaten eggs, corn starch, and flour in sequence.
- Cut the chicken; dip pieces in egg, then flour, and lastly in corn starch.
- Heat oil over medium heat in a large pan. Add chicken and cook, stirring throughout to ensure even cooking, 5-10 minutes until cooked though. You’ll have to do it in batches.
- If you have extra oil, drain off some of it.
- Combine corn starch and water until dissolved.
- Add sauce to pan and bring to a boil. Add corn starch mixture. Stir until sauce thickens.
- Add chicken pieces, and stir until completely covered.
- Place in a bowl and cover with sesame seeds and green onions.
- Serve with rice and broccoli.
- Feel immense pride.
My wife is a teacher and asked if there was anything I could bake to represent Martin Luther King, Jr day. After discarding many ideas, we concluded Black and Whites would be appropriate as a sweet treat for her classes. Though in the final execution, some of them look more Yin-Yang looking than half moon, they taste great, and it’s possible that if people are eating something yummy, they’ll be more receptive to learning. In any case, my part of the curriculum ends when the cookies are done.
Black and White cookies have always been something I’ve wanted to make well, but until this batch, I’ve never succeeded in making them taste as good as the ones I had growing up in New York.
And in New York, great ones are everywhere. Whether at your favorite red-and-white string bakery or facing down a 2AM sugar urge at a nearly-abandonded bodega, they were consistently delicious: moist, light, redolent of lemon and just the right smidgin of crackle in the icing.
When I moved to Boston I noticed they didn’t make them the same here. They were crumblier, and almost always used frosting on both sides or sometimes just the chocolate side. They were fat, and consistent with their name “Half Moon,” but not like the big almost sugar-cookie shaped delectable we often got at Zabar’s. In Massachusetts there seemed to be no parameters constraining their size; in New York there were mini black and whites and regular. Nothing in between. And that’s how we liked it.
Most of that has changed; you can find “NY Style” black and whites here in Boston proper now, and they sell pretty good ones in nearly any suburban supermarket. However, my need to make them well was still powerful, and a request from my wife was all I needed to try again.
I did use the Zabar’s recipe (printed in my favorite New York cookbook and the NY Times) as the base, but also consulted with the Joy of Baking‘s version, which was similar but had a few more interesting ideas. I found it necessary to double the vanilla (always) and double the amount of lemon extract. It seemed using the prescribed amount ended up with no lemon smell or taste at all, and it is supposed to figure prominently in the flavor.
There was also an issue with the chocolate color. Just using semi-sweet chocolate (chips, for instance) and adding to the frosting resulted in a light-brown color, but the New York style are nearly black, so obviously something needed to be done. I found that adding cocoa powder neatly darkened the chocolate and in addition helped it retain a nice chocolate taste. Lastly, the corn syrup was necessary to keep it all not just spreadable but smooth. My first few were not smooth and but I realized how to fix that and then I was happy.
In terms of the cookies, because the recipe described using “just enough flour to make them workable,” I held out about a half cup of the flour mixture from the final product. This I think resulted in a lighter, less dense cookie. The only other thing to note was that the cookies, to be true new york style should be flat, not half-spheres, so if you’re aiming for complete fidelity, the ice cream scooper might not be what you want. I found silicon mats and parchment paper worked equally well.
New York Style Black and White Cookies
- 1 3/4 cups granulated sugar
- 2 sticks unsalted butter
- 4 large eggs
- 1 1/2 cups milk
- 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
- 1/2 teaspoon lemon extract
- 2 1/2 cups cake flour
- 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
- 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 4 cups confectioners’ sugar
- 1/3 to 1/2 cup boiling water
- 2 tablespoons corn syrup (more for chocolate icing)
- 1 ounce bittersweet and milk chocolate
- 1 teaspoon vanilla (more for chocolate icing)
- 1 tablespoon of cocoa powder (for chocolate icing)
1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. (I found this recipe required more than two baking trays).
2. In a stand mixer, combine sugar and butter. Mix until fluffy. Add eggs, milk and vanilla and lemon extracts, and mix until smooth.
3. In a separate bowl, combine cake flour, all-purpose flour, baking powder and salt. Stir until mixed. Add dry mixture to the wet, DO NOT OVERMIX. Using an ice cream scooper, place heaping spoonfuls of the dough 2 inches apart on the baking sheets. Bake until edges begin to brown, 18 to 20 minutes. Cool completely.
1. Place confectioners’ sugar in a stand mixer. Gradually stir in just enough boiling water to the sugar to make a thick, spreadable mixture. Add corn syrup and vanilla and a pinch of salt. Adjust all those ingredients to taste. You don’t want a grainy, sugary texture.
2. Add 1/3 the frosting to the top half of a double-boiler where you had previously melted the chocolate and corn syrup over simmering water. Warm the mixture, stirring, until chocolate is melted and frosting is smooth. Turn off the heat, but leave chocolate frosting over hot water to keep it spreadable. I used a spreader to coat using the vanilla, then a spatula to finish “smoothing” the warm chocolate side. Let sit (if you can) to harden. Let dry before eating, if you can. I found the cocoa powder necessary to get the right chocolate color and the corn syrup to make it smooth.
Yield: 2 dozen large cookies.
If you are like me and spend most of your year avoiding potatoes and fried foods, then you will certainly love this potato latke recipe for Chanukah.
Most Jewish kids I knew regarded Chanukah as a special time, but somewhat less special than Christmas. And for many good reasons. One, it often didn’t happen when there was no school. Two, there weren’t any TV special cartoons about it. And three, nothing that amazing to put in your mouth came out of it. Sure, there was great food but nothing that made your head explode. (I was somewhat shocked to realize that donuts are a traditional Chanukah food since they were never ever made or served when I was growing up). Potato pancakes were served, but after you make these you’ll realize why not often. They take a lot of work and they cause a lot of suffering (crying from onions; bleeding from the grater; burning from the oil; heartburn from inability to stop eating them). And, they are by no means health food. But they do remind us of one of the central ideas of Chanukah—which is that the oil we thought would last for one night actually lasted eight nights. A great way I’ve found to make one night of oil last is to consume it by frying potatoes and onions in them and then they stay with me for at least eight days (or five if you go to the gym a lot).
Of course, I loved the latkes I ate growing up (with apple sauce), but I could never replicate them. They would come out too fat, too potato-y, too flavorless. After years of experimenting, I realized that when they are made right, latkes should resemble a crispy hash brown that you are invited to eat without silverware, ketchup or a side of eggs. At my house, they never make it to table unless I have the discipline to start a long time before company comes. Otherwise, we all just eat them as soon as they’re ready, and then no one wants to eat brisket, soup, or anything else (until later, when the donuts are served).
There was a post I found a few years ago called “Possibly the Best Latkes We Have Ever Eaten” by a NY Nosh (whose site was inexplicably replaced by a large picture of a leaf). That recipe, (reposted here) called for boiling half of your potatoes which is a great concept but one that I believe results in some kind of crazy knish-latke hybrid which is delicious but not a latke. So if you’re having friends from the Midwest in who’ve never eaten a potato pancake, by all means, go ahead make that one. If you want a more traditional latke, this is the one for you.
On a tip from a friend, I started using half sweet potatoes. I know that sounds like a crime, but it’s not. They have almost the same exact consistency and a little bit of a sweet flavor. It also makes them look more interesting, with their orange-and-white stripes. If you can’t bear the violation of tradition, then use all-white potatoes.
- 2 3/4 pounds potatoes (half sweet)
- 1 large onion
- 2 eggs, well beaten
- 1.5 tablespoons matzoh meal or flour
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
- Canola oil, for frying
- Salt for seasoning afterwards.
In large bowl, grate potatoes and onion together. This will help the potatoes not turn brown.
Once you’re done grating, you’ll need a separate bowl with which to squeeze EVERY BIT OF LIQUID OUT OF THE POTATO ONION MIXTURE. So, you will have three bowls: one that currently has your wet mixture in it. One that you will squeeze the liquid in to; and one where you will put the dried mixture.
This is important, because the one thing my mother-in-law taught me was that after you squeeze out the onion/potato mixture (and you wait) you’ll note that a white substance, like wet flour, forms and will remain, after you pour out the liquid. THAT IS MAGIC STARCH. Scoop that up and mix it in to your now dry potato-onion mixture.
Then, add the egg, matzoh meal, salt and pepper.
Lots of recipes call for patties but I prefer using an ice cream scooper. You pick the size, it’s your diet.
Drop scoops into hot oil. It should sizzle when this happens. Try a sample scoop to make sure. You want your oil hot but not smoking. It will take one or two (which you, the cook, will be forced to eat) to get it right.
I like to flip over the latkes and press them flat. But you don’t have to. When done, the latkes will have a crispy light brown look. Remove them with a slotted spatula or tongs and dry on a paper bag (some people call for paper towels but I find them inefficient). Salt them when they come off. Hand to people who are standing near by.
Follow with a shot of apple sauce, or don’t, the latkes have already made the celebration special.